Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Leash Aggression: "You're All Right" Exercise

I've had quite a few clients with leash aggression or leash reactivity in the past few months.  I have a method that uses positive reinforcement to help desensitize your pooch to others on a leash.  May it be leash reactive to humans or dogs, this method can apply.

Needed for this exercise:
High Value Moist Treat or Motivator
Leashed dog
Non-Slip Collar(Nylon)
Clicker
Volunteer(s) w/ non-reactive dog
Volunteer(s) w/ reactive dog

First, one must establish their dog's threshold. The threshold is the distance between the dog and the stress causing item(dog or human), for this exercise we will use dog, before your dog begins to react to the stress.  For some this may be 40 ft, 50 ft or even 100ft.  Have your volunteer start with the non-reactive dog at this threshold. When your dog's attention reverts to the volunteer, and he does not react, say "You're all right" click and treat.
Slowly, take a few steps forward towards the volunteer. If the dog stay unreactive, repeat "you're all right" click and treat. If the dog reacts(lunges or barks), call his name, waive the treat in front of his nose, once he looks at you, ask him to sit, say "You're all right" if the the dog continues to look at you and not the volunteer, click and treat.
Gradually, takes steps forward repeating the above steps.  It may be that you take two steps forward one step back, or that this exercise may take a while to get within walking or passing distance.  Each dog is different.
Once your dog has mastered the neutral non-reactive dog, then repeat the exercise with the reactive dog. This will take time with each dog.  Stay positive and consistent.

Please consult a trainer for more details or help with the exercise.  Email me with success stories!

Dari Ferguson
Head Trainer/Owner
www.backinthepack.com
info@backinthepack.com

Thursday, April 24, 2014

Fighting Amongst the Pack

I have received quite a few inquiries of fighting amongst the pack this season.  I found a great article that agrees with my methods of training.  Please take a look, and ofcourse....call or message with question, concerns, or appointments!


http://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/canine-corner/201404/aggression-between-dogs-in-the-same-household?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+CanineCornerCS+%28Canine+Corner%29


Dari Ferguson
www.backinthepack.com

Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Cognitive Learning and Counter Surfing


Dogs May Understand Human Point of View

Article Reference:
University of Portsmouth (2013, February 11). Dogs may understand human point of view. ScienceDaily. Retrieved February 21, 2013, from http://www.sciencedaily.com /releases/2013/02/130211090840.htm


I think this is pretty fascinating. Both my Shepherds are very food motivated and make great students. They both know NOT to counter-surf, not to trash-dive, but without fail my younger Shepherd takes the lid off the trash can in the bedroom every time we leave him alone for extended periods of time. Now, is this an "out-of-sight, out- of-mind", or should I leave the lights on if we are away after dark? I have to try this now, maybe install a night vision camera. I am interested in testing if he attempts to trash dive with the lights on after being left for a couple hours as well as with the lights off. My guess is that he will take the lid off and investigate either way, but would love to be proven wrong.
I think in this particular instance boredom, as well anxiety, may be a factor in his trash investigation. I also have to take into consideration his feeding times. My GSD's are on a strict feed/walk schedule. If it's 5:30pm and we are not home yet, again without fail we find the trash lid off, is this due to hunger? 9 out of 10 times, he is not destructive, and does not damage the lid or knock over the trash, so we lazily haven't corrected it. This sounds like an excellent opportunity to "fix" the behavior.
My other GSD is given free reign of the full house during our leave. We worked with him a bit more with training, and have experienced this only a few times. They are so random, that off the top of my head I can't think of a possible similarity in circumstances. Could it be the lighting? I know if we are in the room, light or dark he will not even attempt to pull food off of a counter or table. He will investigate the area to ensure we didn't drop any scraps. If we leave the room and go upstairs, he will still refrain from touching the food, whether he has eaten or not. But lighting.....there is the variable I have yet to try.
To my knowledge and experience dogs learn by association. I train using positive reinforcement combined with a newer aged pack mentality based on a family infrastructure. What is the reward for NOT counter surfing? Whatever motivates him the most: food, play, attention, all of the above. The question still lies, does he know he is "wrong" if he table/counter surfs? Do they have a true concept of morality, right or wrong? Or is it as simple as associative training and reinforcement? This article raises many questions as to the reasoning behind the dog's willingness to comply to training. Is it the reward, is it morality, is it associative training, is it the availability of a resource? Time to test this out!


Friday, November 30, 2012

Bringing Home Your New Puppy


So you want to bring home a puppy? Puppies can be a fun and enjoyable experience.  They are cute and cuddly, and it pains us all to see them grow up. Of course, many of us think this because the puppy isn't ours. HA! That cute and cuddly pup is also a little ball of destruction if you are NOT on your toes. Many do not realize the challenge of a puppy.  The exposure in the first 4 months of a puppy's life will mold and impact its entire life. Training and socializing are key to a happy, well-rounded, and stable pup.

Choosing the right puppy is the first step.  When you chose your pup, whether it's from a breeder or a rescue, take note of the activity and energy level.  At 8 weeks, pups are developing the beginning of their personalities, whether it be active, laid back, mischievous, or reserved.  You also need to know your breed traits as well.  Even in a mixed breed pup, the traits are in there, just watered down a bit. Base your selection on your family's activity level.  If you are a runner and very active, then an active pup is fine for you.  If you are a reserved and laid back family, you may not want to choose the most active, wild, and playful pup of the litter. He will require more exercise as he matures or your furniture and carpet may be a victim to his boredom.

Once you have decided on a pup, introduce him to his new family and household.  Decide where the pup will spend the majority of his puppyhood.  Will you crate train him or allow free roam in a designated area?  Many crate-train their puppy to assist with housebreaking.  Decide where the crate will be located, or if you will have multiple crates in the house.  I am a firm believer of a pack, so I tend to keep a crate near the bedrooms so the pup can bond with the family even during rest times.  Keeping a crate in a quiet place away from the hustle and bustle is wise as well.  Everyone needs a cave to withdraw to and have some privacy.  The pup will need to learn how to be on his own, to avoid separation anxiety, and this cave crate will provide that.  Make sure everyone is "okay" with the puppy.  He will need a lot of socializing with all family members, dogs and cats alike, if you want him to be well rounded.

Housebreaking and early training starts immediately. Puppies will eliminate frequently in the early stages. The more water they have, the more they will urinate. Regulate food and water intake on a schedule to help predict and train the puppy when to go.  Puppy pads are helpful in the colder seasons and then gradually moving the pads to outdoors to assist in housebreaking the pup. Training can start right away. Teaching the puppy his name and sit are the first and easiest. Start with that then work on impulse control, recalls, and other basic obedience.

Toys, Toys, toys and more toys, will help to save your furniture, shoes, and/important documents. Buy toys of different textures, but stay away from toys that resemble your important items.  No need to get him use to those fabrics or textures now. Puppies go thru a teething stage just as humans do, and will need so something to chew on to lessen the soreness of their gums.  Soft rubber toys and teething rings that you can freeze are always a good call.

Take the puppy everywhere you can. Get him use to different people of all ages, dogs of all breeds and sizes, cats, squirrels, locations, and noises.  One of the biggest problems BiTP works with is leash reactivity associated with other dogs or small animals, and anxiety based fear problems associated with loud noises or fast moving objects. Socializing is a huge must as a puppy, and key to stability as an adult.  You MUST expose them to as much as possible in these first months!

While there is a lot to remember and a lot of work to do with your puppy, they are still fun and the most enjoyable learning experience you can have.  Take lots of pictures because they grow up fast.  We offer a puppy obedience package, and will gladly be there to help introduce your pup to its new home, and guide you every step of the way if you need.  Feel free to contact us with questions and concerns with your new pup.  Enjoy him, they are pure happiness!

DJF

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Dominance......A Thing of the Past?

Everyone knows of Cesar Millan and his charismatic dog-training show "The Dog Whisperer".  His training methods are not unknown to the dog-training world.  They have been practiced for decades and have been both successful and detrimental to owners and their pups.  Alpha Rolls, Submission, Negative Reinforcement, and Dominance are slowly becoming an undesirable method amongst trainers, veterinarians, and dog enthusiasts.

Studies have shown there are significant differences between domesticated dogs and wolves. The idea of "dominance" in a pack is much different than the way that we as humans have come to understand it. Leadership is a must, but fear based submission or forced submission are frowned upon. It has been shown that dogs work well as we do in a family environment, mother/father raise responsible adults, then the children leave and do the same.   It is not necessarily one man to rule with an iron fist. The dogs are provided with food and nurturing by their adults and learn to socialize with siblings and other young members of their pack (family).  It's a team building experience.  Though they do challenge respect as most human children do, they are not fighting for a top "alpha" spot.
My training techniques follow this same methodology. Owners need to understand the behavior of their dogs.  They need to ask themselves the questions, "What is it they need to satisfy them? What are they missing in their lives that causes these bad behaviors? What triggers these behaviors and how might we have contributed to it?"  Once we figure out the cues, the background, and the circumstances involved, we can make a plan specifically designed for your family (pack).  Most clients have dogs that are acting on their own because they are fending for themselves.  They are not provided with a stable family (pack) that fulfills its needs as a dog or breed.  Back in the Pack can help make you a family again!

Monday, August 20, 2012

A Perfect Goodbye


The circle of life can be a trying realization to us as our beloved pet ages. Once he stops eating or drinking, barely notices your presences, or fails to acknowledge his favorite treats or toys, it may be time to start considering letting him go. Many vets will make house calls for euthanasia, which can make the passing more comfortable for both owner and pet. Many of us hate the idea of losing our beloved on a cold metal table, and would prefer to have it in their pet's favorite bed or sleeping area.  There are always the details to consider once the time has come. Cremation or burial. My 
preferred choice is cremation. I would recommend private cremation which will help ensure you are left with your pet's remains only. Regardless of all the financial or administrative tasks that need to be dealt with in your pet's passing, the most difficult to deal with will be the emotional toll. 



There are many ways to help grieve your loss:

Create a scrapbook:
Anytime you feel you miss him, enjoy the memories in pictures reminding you of all the wonderful past times you shared. Eventually, only happy memories will remain, and your memories will become a comfort.



Plant a tree:
Each spring as it flourishes your memory of him continues to flourish, as no pet could ever be replaced. Your tree will become a spot for reflection. The time you spend tending and pruning your tree will ease your grief, and help fill that void of no longer caring for your companion.

Write a letter to your pet. Get all of your feelings out on paper, express what it feels like to lose him and to live on without him. Don't hold back. Anger, guilt, denial, and depression are common signs of grief, and no one can read these confessions but you.


Send a newspaper article or blog about your beloved. Share the memories with your loved ones and your support system. You may even find old pictures or stories long forgotten.

Ask for space and time to heal.
 
Those who are not directly related may not feel the loss as you, many deal with loss differently. You will have loved ones urging you to move on or forward. Take your time.  


Pay it forward. You may be left with a basket of toys or products. Donate them to a local shelter or rescue, and aid another needy pup.

These are just ideas I have found to help those who are grieving the loss of their pet. It never gets easier as we age. We notice how precious life is, and how our pets are with us for such a short period of our human lives. It will be an emotional time for the owner, and any remaining pets in the family. Try to keep routines, feelings, walks and playtime as consistent as you can to avoid any major behavior problems with your remaining pets. They will grieve in their own way too. Allow them to do so. Once you are ready, and you will know, pursue a new family pet. Take your time, chose a pet that matches your lifestyle. It will be hard, but it will be worth it.

DJF

Friday, July 27, 2012

Hot Weather Tips for Your Pets

(Courtesy of the ASPCA) (ASPCA) -- We all love spending the long, sunny days of summer outdoors with our furry companions, but being over-eager in hot weather can spell danger, ASPCA experts warn.   "Most people love to spend the warmer days enjoying the outdoors with friends and family, but it is important to remember that some activities can be dangerous for our pets," said Dr. Camille DeClementi, Senior Toxicologist at the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center. "By following a few simple rules, it is easy to keep your pet safe while still having fun in the sun." Take these simple precautions, provided by ASPCA experts, to help prevent your pet from overheating. And if you suspect your pet is suffering from heat stroke, get help from your veterinarian immediately. 

  #1 Visit the Vet  A visit to the veterinarian for a spring or early summer check-up is a must. Make sure your pets get tested for heartworm if they aren't on year-round preventive medication. Do parasites bug your animal companions? Ask your doctor to recommend a safe flea and tick control program.





#2 Made in the Shade  Pets can get dehydrated quickly, so give them plenty of fresh, clean water when it's hot outdoors. Make sure your pets have a shady place to get out of the sun, be careful to notover-exercise them, and keep them indoors when it's extremely hot. 

#3  Know the Warning Signs  Symptoms of  overheating in pets include excessive panting or difficulty breathing, increased heart and respiratory rate, drooling, mild weakness, stupor or even collapse. They can also include seizures, bloody diarrhea and vomit along with an elevated body temperature of over 104 degrees. Animals with flat faces, like Pugs and Persian cats, are more susceptible to heat stroke since they cannot pant as effectively. These pets, along with the elderly, the overweight, and those with heart or lung diseases, should be kept cool in air-conditioned rooms as much as possible. 


#4  No Parking!  Never leave your animals alone in a parked vehicle. "On a hot day, a parked car can become a furnace in no time-even with the windows open-which could lead to fatal heat stroke," says Dr. Louise Murray, Vice President of ASPCA Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital. Also, leaving pets unattended in cars in extreme weather is illegal in several states. 

#5  Make a Safe Splash  Do not leave pets unsupervised around a pool-not all dogs are good swimmers. Introduce your pets to water gradually and make sure they wear flotation devices when on boats. Rinse your dog off after swimming to remove chlorine or salt from his fur, and try to keep your dog from drinking pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that could cause stomach upset. 

#6  Screen Test  "During warmer months, the ASPCA sees an increase in injured animals as a result of High-Rise Syndrome, which occurs when pets-mostly cats-fall out of windows or doors and are seriously or fatally injured," says Dr. Murray. "Pet owners need to know that this is completely preventable if they take simple precautions." Keep all unscreened windows or doors in your home closed and make sure adjustable screens are tightly secured. 

#7  Summer Style  Giving your dog a lightweight summer haircut helps prevent overheating. Shave down to a one-inch length, never to the skin, so your dog still has some protection from the sun. Brushing cats more often than usual can prevent problems caused by excessive heat. As far as skin care, be sure that any sunscreen or insect repellent product you use on your pets is labeled specifically for use on animals. 

#8  Street Smarts  When the temperature is very high, don't let your dog linger on hot asphalt. Being so close the ground, your pooch's body can heat up quickly, and sensitive paw pads can burn. Keep walks during these times to a minimum. 

 #9 Avoid Chemicals  Commonly used flea and tick products, rodenticides (mouse and rat baits), and lawn and garden insecticides can be harmful to cats and dogs if ingested, so keep them out of reach. When walking your dog, steer clear of areas that you suspect have been sprayed with insecticides or other chemicals. Keep citronella candles, oil products and insect coils out of pets' reach as well. Call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 if you suspect your animal has ingested a poisonous substance. 

#10  Party Animals  Taking Fido to a backyard barbeque or party? Remember that the food and drink offered to guests may be poisonous to pets. Keep alcoholic beverages away from pets, as they can cause intoxication, depression and comas. Similarly, remember that the snacks enjoyed by your human friends should not be a treat for your pet; any change of diet, even for one meal, may give your dog or cat severe digestive ailments. Avoid raisins, grapes, onions, chocolate and products with the sweetener xylitol.